The Western Hebrides, Scotland

Scottish Gaelic name – Na h-Eileanan siar

I love staying on the islands in Scotland. I try to visit one every time I go home. I will share information about some of my favorite hotels that I have visited many times. I am a Scotsmaster, one of very few experts in America.

These were easy exams for me, since I grew up there, and went to University in Edinburgh. One of my degrees is a Masters in Scottish Tourism and Marketing.

These islands are in the Atlantic Ocean, off the north west coast of Scotland. There are 15 islands in the Outer Hebrides, Lewis, Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, Barra, Scalpay, Great Bernera, Grimsay North, Berneray, Eriskay, Vatersay, Baleshare, Grimsay South, Flodaigh, and Fraoch-Eilean.  The most popular are Lewis, Harris, Eriskay and Barra. 

You have to be brave when you fly into Barra, on a dinky little plane, and you land on the beach. The 13 islands in the Inner Hebrides chain are  Arran, Bute, Coll, Colonsay, Gigha, Iona, Islay, Jura, Mull, Staffa, Tiree and Small Isles, with Arran, Iona, Islay, and Mull getting the most visitors. Over 50 islands are uninhabited. There are only 26,000 people living on all the islands.

The islands can be reached by ferry and air. They are regularly cut off in the winter, because of storms. They don’t say, "It's windy, or stormy," they quote the Beaufort Scale, which is an empirical measure designed in 1805 by Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort that relates wind speed.       

I remember as a little girl having my Granny say—include in your prayers the Hebrides tonight, it’s a Scale 10, which meant they were getting their heads blown off.   

A heat wave is 65 degrees.  You have 24 hours of day light in the summer, and I have played golf and tennis when most people are in bed.  A very calm lifestyle among the islands - no one gets their knickers in a twist (gets mad) and they are always polite and happy. Everyone cuts peat from the meadows to burn in their fireplaces.

I remember one year I was home there was a report on the tele. There were six gales in one day off the Butt of Lewis, and the fish where being blown onto the grass on top of the 650 ft. cliffs at Barra during the storms. No need for a rod, just take a bucket to pick up the fish providing you could stand up in the wind.

It is a wonderful area to look at important ancient prehistoric sites, and they have rare bird sightings almost daily in many of the islands.

You have wonderful hiking on all the islands and all you need is boots, your binoculars  and a windbreaker. A brolly (umbrella) is of no use. You could be like Mary Poppins—airborne between islands.

Every island has different wildlife viewing, with lots of whales, dolphins and porpoise.  My special favorite is Puffins. There are some 7500 freshwater lochs (lakes) on the islands, all filled with fish. You don’t need a permit for trout or salmon fishing. There are lots of shipwrecks among the archipelago, and many historic lighthouses. On one island, three lighthouse keepers disappeared with no trace.

I love the Western Isles flag, which has three Viking ships on it. This part of Scotland was raided frequently by the Vikings. 

Gaelic—the Scottish language—is spoken widely throughout the islands. Sunday is a very quiet day. The local vicars chain up the swings in the play grounds so no one can use them. It’s a day of prayer.

In the Outer Hebrides, you should visit Lewis and Harris, because of the Callendish stones, larger than Stonehenge.  Take the ferry from Ullapool.

Inner Hebrides gets the most visitors. Arran is a wonderful island, Scotland in miniature, with seven great golf courses. Islay is great because of the whisky distilleries, and go to Mull for its castle, history and to Iona for the wonderful abbey.

There are many great castles, luxury lodges, and country inns on the various islands but these are my favorites.

Kilmichael County House on the Isle of Arran is the oldest house on the island. It offers seven elegant and rather beautiful bedrooms. The house is set in magnificent gardens and the chef is outstanding. Each of the seven rooms is unique and Arran is a lovely place to visit.

I grew up on the Isle of Skye in the Western Hebrides. Toravaig House Hotel at Sleat is a lovely location where Gaelic is widely spoken. Its owner was captain of the luxurious small cruise ship MV Hebridean Princess for several years.

Cruising is a wonderful way to sail around Scotland. Toravaig House is a beautiful small country hotel of quality with ambience of peace and comfort.  One obvious Gaelic word springs to mind “glayva” very good.      

I used to practice my Highland dancing using two brooms, since my granny didn’t want me to cut off my toes by using two swords. The practice paid off, since I won over a 100 medals at championships, then in my twenties, I became a judge and a television announcer for the games.

Argyll House is on the Isle of Iona. From the west coast port of Oban, a ferry will first take you to the Isle of Mull, passing dramatic Duart Castle, the home of Clan MacLean.

When I traveled this spring, the spectacular beauty of the crossing made me almost weep at it all. My blood is very strong when the Hebrides are involved.  Felix Mendelssohn wrote “The Hebrides Overture” after an extended visit.  Iona is most sacred with its remarkable and soul-lifting Benedictine Abbey, ancient Celtic high crosses and peaceful community.

My parents favorite place was the Isle of Eriska, a lovely small lodge on a private island just north of Oban. It is a nature preserve, and it has its own nine hole golf course. The seafood is outstanding and its scallops are flown out to the top restaurants all over the world.  Local sightseeing—easy to get to—is Arduaine Gardens, Inveraray Castle, Isle of Mull, Glencoe, and Loch Lomond.  

I have discovered so many hidden places on my visits home to different parts of Scotland. These are just a few to whet your appetite.

No matter where you go, you must go to a Ceilhah (Kaylee, dance and music night). The Scottish people know how to have a good time after a glass of shandy – half beer and half lemonade.

I recommend a lot of castle stays, the Whiskey Trail, golf, and fishing.  

Maureen Jones, Scotsmaster

Maureen Jones is president of All Horizons Travel at 160 Main Street in Los Altos. Members of her staff are experts in business travel, cruises, and all types of leisure.